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The
Pearl of Toamotu
Since
the end of the 80ies, the cultured pearl became the major export item of
French Polynesia. In 1995, the territory has exported about 3 tons of
pearls. Those beautiful “jewels” of Tahiti grow in mother-of-pearl
with black lips (pinctada margaritifera), living in the lagoons of
Polynesia and are cultivated in great quantities.
The
pearl oysters represent a small value in comparison with the pearls.
Nonetheless, French Polynesia exports in the range of 600 tons gross of
mother-of-pearl especially to Asian countries where it is transformed into
buttons and other accessories. With mother-of-pearl easily available has
caused the Polynesians to develop a handicraft of a very high quality:
mother-of-pearl engraving.
In
1996, it was estimated that 50 engravers earned their life from this
activity supporting a total of 150 people or 3 persons per workshop. With
the absence of precise statistics it is difficult to determine the exact
quantity of engraved mother-of-pearl produced. By the professionals
themselves an amount of 100 tons is given.
The
major problem for the engravers is to secure the supply of the raw
material. They have a regular demand for high-grade mother-of-pearl,
however in rather small quantities, whereas the pearl farms prefer to
export the mother-of-pearl in bulk. Abroad, prices and quantities are also
more interesting and 1 kg can fetch about 5 US$ (500 Fcfp) compared to 350
Fcfp in Polynesia. The craftsmen, as a consequence would prefer to
organize the market in such a way that they would gain first priority in
selecting the necessary high quality raw material needed for their craft
(this would have a direct impact on the image of the territory, the
handicraft and tourism). Plus this would end the almost paradox situation
that large quantities of mother-of-pearl are thrown back into the sea in
times of overproduction.
THE
WORKING STEPS OF MOTHER-OF-PEARL ENGRAVING
In
French Polynesia, mother-of-pearl is either worked as a complete shell or
cut into smaller pieces for the production of jewelry (earrings and
especially pendants) or accessories (buckles, wallets, buttons).
The
first step is the sorting of the mother-of-pearl in relation to quality
and size. A diameter of 10 to 14 cm is quite common, larger size
mother-of-pearl is rare and in high demand. The mother-of-pearl is then
cleaned and for a first time polished. From then on the mother-of-pearl is
ready for engraving. Often, traditional Polynesian motives are chosen,
especially those originating from the Marquesas or motives inspired by
nature. The last step and the most tedious is the finishing. A hand
polishing process with water giving the mother-of-pearl a perfect shine.
The
finished products are sold in boutiques in Papeete, in hotels on the
islands and at exhibitions. Very little is exported. The retail price of
engraved mother-of-pearl varies from 1,500 to 7,000 Fcfp.
JEWELRY
A TIME FOR FANTASY
 In
the old times, Polynesian women were often wearing jewelry that was, with
little exception rather crude. Only in the Marquesas existed fine jewelry
based on bones, animal teeth etc. As such untreated mother-of-pearl or
colored feathers were worn.
The
production of local creative jewelry dates back to the 50ies and 60ies
when craftsmen began to use local raw material such as mother-of-pearl,
shells, coconut fiber, pandanus and wood in connection with imported
materials such as raffia, corals, cotton and certain shells not available
in French Polynesia. In the 80ies the Tahitian pearl begins to complete
this choice.
Recently
necklaces and earrings became a favorite of the jewelers and nowadays
rings, bracelets or even foot jewelry and cloth accessories enrich the
assortment.
There
are about ten serious jewelers in French Polynesia
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